Curtain Tie-Back Bee - Free Crochet Pattern

This little bee works hard holding a curtain bunched together during the day, and hanging on the banister when off work at night. If you make two (one for each side of a curtain) consider reversing the front (its belly) and back (its wings) so the pair can hang next to each other.

Size: The head is the widest part and it's about 3.25" diameter The length of the body is about 6" from top of the head to the stinger. The main yarn I use is on the bulky side for medium weight.

What you will need

Yarn: I'm using Red Heart Super Saver (4, medium) yellow and black for the head and body. White for wings (I like something softer for the wings so I'm using Lion brand Feels like Butta). And black 100% medium/4 cotton (I'm using Lily Sugar 'n Cream) for the "arms" that will be used to tie the curtain back (cotton is more durable for tying/retying).

Hook: 3.5mm

Other: Stuffing, safety eyes (I'm using 9mm, but the size isn't crucial), scissors, a tapestry needle, and stitch markers or another color yarn to mark the start of rounds; where the rounds are continuous it can get tricky if you lose count.

Directions

Abbreviations

• SC = single crochet
• INC = increase: 2 SC in one stitch
• DEC = decrease: one SC into two stitches (invisible decrease looks better - use the front loops of the two stitches you are decreasing)
  
• SLST = slipstitch

Overview

The head and the body are worked as one continuous piece (personally, I have trouble sewing on heads so I love it when I can do this). During the increasing in the first few rounds I try to put the actual increase in different places so I'm making the head a circle and not a hexagram.

When I get to the body I switch from continuous rounds to closing each round so the color transitions are better aligned. This leaves a bit of a seam so I prefer not to crochet the head this way. Most patterns choose one or the other method for moving across rounds but I often switch from one to the other as needed.

This bee will be tied to a curtain and looking to its right (so the front of the face is at a 90 degree turn from the body).

Head and Body

• R1: [yellow until R25] 6 SC into a magic ring (6 stitches) [Figures 1 and 2]

I start with a magic ring (Figure 1) because it allows you to close the starting hole better. But you an also start with a chain of two and put R1 into the 2nd chain from the hook.

• R2: INC x6 (12)
• R3: *INC, SC* x6 (18)
• R4: *2 SC, INC* x6 (24)
• R5: *SC, INC, 2 SC* x6 (30)
• R6: *INC, 4 SC* x6 (36)
• R7: *3 SC, INC, 2 SC* x6 (42)
  
• R8: *6 SC, INC* x6 (48) [Figure 3; done increasing the head]
  
• R9-14: (6 rounds): 48 SC (48)

Add eyes between R9 and R10, approximately 8 stitches apart. The eyes are on the front of the face, but the front of the bee's body will be on the side. Since that's the part that will be flush against the curtain it's the best place to put the color transitions, which will be where the rounds start. So aim for the front of the face to be at 90 degrees to the start of rounds [Figures 4 and 5 are after R11; Figure 6 is after R14]. But since I switch to closing each round when get to color transitions it's not as important.

• R15: *6 SC, DEC* x6 (42) [Start decreasing the head]
  
• R16: *5 SC, DEC* x6 (36)
• R17: *4 SC, DEC* x6 (30)
• R18: *3 SC, DEC* x6 (24)
• R19: *2 SC, DEC* x6 (18) 

This is a good time to stuff the head, but don't overstuff because you will not be closing it; also in general, you don't want this bee overstuffed and heavy.

 

• R20: *SC, DEC* x6 (12) [Figures 7 and 8 before and after stuffing; finished head]
  
• R21: INC x12 (24) [Figure 9; start increasing for the body]
• R22: *3 SC, INC* x6 (30)
• R23: *4 SC, INC* x6 (36) [Done increasing body] 

Change to rounds from continuous: SLTS end of R23 to the first stitch of the next round. For the rest of the body start each round with a chain 1 and end each round with a SLST to the first stitch skipping over the starting 1 chain. Color transitions: Change colors at the end of the final SC of the round before, so the ending SLST is in the new color. No need to carry the second color when switching because you start and end each color in the same location of the round.

• R24: [yellow] chain 1, 36 SC, SLST to first SC
  
• R25: [black] chain 1, 36 SC, SLST to first SC
• R26: [black] chain 1, 36 SC, SLST to first SC [Figure 10]
  
• R27: [yellow] chain 1, 36 SC, SLST to first SC
• R28: [yellow] chain 1, 36 SC, SLST to first SC
• R29: [yellow] chain 1, *4 SC, DEC* x6 (30), SLST to first SC
• R30: [black] chain 1, 30 SC, SLST to first SC [Figure 11]
• R31: [black] chain 1, *3 SC, DEC* x6 (24), SLST to first SC [Figure 12]
• R32: [yellow] chain 1, *6 SC, DEC* x3 (21), SLST to first SC 

Stuff the body and continue stuffing as you go until you go until R35. Do not overstuff.

• R33: [yellow] chain 1, *5 SC, DEC* x3 (18), SLST to first SC
  
• R34: [yellow] chain 1, *SC, DEC* x6 (12), SLST to first SC [done with yellow]
  
• R35: [black] chain 1, *SC, DEC, SC* x3 (9) [switch to continuous rounds so stinger is pointy]
  
• R36: [black] *SC, DEC* x3 (6)
• R37: [black] 3 DEC (3) end with a SLST and leave a bit of yarn as the stinger (~1") [Figure 13]

Antennae

Cut two strands of 12" black yarn. Fold each in half, and loop through the 6th round about 15 stitches apart (about 4 or 5 stitches to the side of each eye) [Figures 14 and 15]. Then put the hook through the loop and put 4 chains using the double strand, then pull the ends through and trim. The chained part should be about an inch, and the two ends about 1/2" [Figures 16 and 17].

 

Wings

Make two wings using soft white yarn.

• R1: 6 SC into a magic ring
• R2: INC x6 (12)
• R3: *INC, SC* x6 (18)
• R4: *4SC, DEC* x3 (15)
• R5: *SC, DEC, 2SC* x3 (12)
• R6: *2SC, DEC* x3 (9)
• R7: *SC, DEC* x3 (6); finish with a SLST and leave some yarn to sew on [Figure 18 also shows the two arms]

The wings are not stuffed; they are sewn to the back of the bee, which is the opposite of the side the arms will be on.

I sewed the last 3 rows or so together to make a heart shape and then sewed the middle of the "heart" to the body of the bee [Figure 20].

Arms

Use black cotton yarn for the arms. Make two, about 10" long each and attach at the top black stripe, one centered to the face, and the other on the opposite side [Figures 19 and 21].

You can make a tube of 8 SC in a round then crochet as many rounds as it takes to get to the needed length. Or you can do something that looks a bit more insect-like and is much sturdier (that's what I did): crochet a Romanian cord for each arm. A video is better than written instructions for this cord, so here's a random one I used (you can google others): YouTube tutorial: how to make a Romanian cord

The Romanian cord is built with SCs stacked at an angle through rotation which means it's denser and stronger. It's pretty, and really great for purse straps and dog collars for amigurumi pups. 

That's it, your bee is done. Make a second one with the arms/wings reversed so they can hang side by side or facing each other on the curtains.

Crochet Sensory Fidget Spinner of sorts - Free Crochet Pattern

Fidget "spinner"

This pretty decoration is actually a fun toy. You see the part that's sticking up from the middle? You can pull it and it never ends. It's kind of like crocheting a 3D version of the figure "8". It's fun to play with for anyone, but can also be used as a fidget for individuals with neurological disorders (from autism to dementia). It's also a really simple project. Other than the very start of the shape you'll just be crocheting the same pattern without having to count rows or turn you work because the bottom and the top will be one continuous row. You just keep going until you like the size then stop.

What you will need

Yarn: I recommend 100% cotton for durability. Also, you're gonna want to wash it every so often, and 100% cotton can just be tossed in the washer/dryer. I'm using Lily Sugar 'n Cream which is a 4 (medium) and comes in fun colors. Since you can switch up the colors however you want, you can use up scraps.

Hook: I'm using 3.75mm but this doesn't get stuffed so I don't need it too tight. I think a 4mm would work just as well.

Other: The usual scissors and a tapestry needle. No need for stitch counters when you make it because (unless you're going for a specific color design) there's no need to count stitches. I'm using stitch markers in my photos only to help point out stitches in the directions.

Directions

Abbreviations

• SC = single crochet
• INC = 2 SC in one stitch
• SLST = slipstitch

Overview

We start with a chain, crochet the back of it (bottom edge), then the front (top edge), then join it into a continuous loop (top edge to bottom edge) and thereafter just repeat the same pattern (one SC one INC) around and around as long as you want, building both edges in one cycle ("cycle" makes more sense to me than "row" or "round" because it loops around). 

The size of the foundational chain will determine the space in the middle, and how tall you can make your fidget before it's too difficult to pull through. The one in the picture started with 13 chains. The one I'm using to demo the steps started with 16.

Steps

1. Chain 16 (Figure 1). We have a foundational chain of 15 and the extra one that will be skipped in step 2.

I'm using purple for the foundational chain and then switching to white so it's easier to tell where the chain was (but I switched late, so the first SC in step 2 is still purple).

2. SC in the back bumps of the chain starting with the 2nd chain from the hook (15 stitches into the foundational chain). 

Since this is the back of the chain I'm calling this the bottom edge. Figure 2 shows the result from this step; I marked the first SC of this step with a purple stitch marker, and on the other (front) side of the 15th chain (end of the foundational chain) with a green stitch marker (technically, the top edge of our work).

3. Fold your work in half (Figure 3) and put your hook from back to front into the front of the final (15th) foundational chain (the one I had marked with a green marker, but removed in Figure 4 to make room for the hook).

4. Rotate your work so the front stitches of the foundation chain are now on top and SC in each (15 stitches, worked into the top edge).

You are now working in the front of the foundational chain, but from behind. So it may be a little hard to get your hook into each, but it's only for this step. Figures 5 and 6 show the first two then the first five stitches of this step. For these figures I put the green stitch marker back to mark the stitch stacked on top of the last foundational chain (so on top of the stitch it previously marked).

5. When you get to the end of the top edge in step 4 it's time to loop the front and back edges to create one continuous edge. There is only one SC in this step, but it's vital to put it in the right place:

Let's orient ourselves. Figure 7 shows the foundational chain now has all 15 back bumps worked, and all 15 top stitches worked; the purple stitch marker is still in the first back SC from step 2 (which was made into the final foundational chain), and the green one is in the SC that's in the front of the first foundational chain. The purple stitch marker is on the bottom edge and the green is on the top edge. 

The last stitch we just finished in step 4 was the end of the top edge, and we will now continue working into the start of the bottom edge. This will create the continuous loop, so this is key.

Put your hook into the first SC from step 2 (where the purple stitch marker is, Figure 8) and SC (Figure 9). TA DA! You have joined the edges and created a continuous loop.

6. From here on out you will simply repeat the same pattern of stitches. Follow the SC from step 5 with an INC in the next stitch, and then just keep repeating this pattern (SC, INC) building cycle after cycle (remember I'm calling each "round" a cycle because you'll work in one edge, looping to the other, building the height of your work from both edges continuously). I like symmetry so I switch colors at start of cycles, but it's not necessary.

Figure 10 shows the work after the first cycle is completed (45 stitches: 15 from each edge joined together in a loop is 30, with SC, INC pattern in each of the 30=45). Each following cycle will raise the stitch count x1.5 from the previous one. But there is no need to count. Just get it to the height you like, then SLST to finish and hide the ends. I'm adding Figures 11 and 12 to show part of the way through the next cycle (I switched to black) and then all the way through it.

How many cycles do you need? It's completely up to you, but if you make it too high for the center opening, it might get a bit harder to pull the middle through. So periodically test the fidgety part of this toy and stop before it's too hard to pull through. Start with more chains for more space to make it larger.

If written directions are confusing, I've seen several videos of basically the same pattern (there's really no room for variation in patterns for this item). Here's one I like, and she adds some fun finishing touches to her fidgets: Miranda’s magic fidget

Gift Box - Free Crochet Pattern

Why Gift Box?

Part of crocheting a gift for someone is the presentation. I like crocheting gift bags or boxes that make the gift more personal. These are reusable, so it's like gifting a second item. I used this box to gift a baby yoda to a friend.

This is my first attempt at writing out a pattern so there's a good chance I'll provide too much information.

What you will need:

Yarn

I used three colors: one for the box, one for the cover, and one for the ribbon. I used Impeccable (by Loops & Threads): it's 100% acrylic, medium (4) weight; a bit bulkier than Caron Simply Soft (which is also 100% acrylic, medium weight) but not as bulky as Red Heart Super Saver (also 100% acrylic, medium weight). For this demo I'm using white 100% cotton medium (Lily Sugar 'n Cream) with a 3.5mm hook.

The colors I used for the box in the photo (for an adult male friend) are Pumpkin for the box, Royal for the top, and Sunny Day for the ribbon.

Tools

As with most patterns you'll need a crochet hook, stitch markers, scissors, and a darning/tapestry needle (a big-eye needle to work in the yarn ends for a finished product). I also like to use a stitch counter. I have a separate post for my thoughts on non-essential tools: Crocheting Tools: Non Essentials

Note on hooks: I used 3.5mm crochet hook because I wanted the stitches to be tight so the box holds its shape. If you want to go sturdier and decide to double-yarn (I didn't), maybe go with 4.0mm if 3.5 is too small. But in general I'd go with the smallest hook you are able to work the yarn with.

Basic concept and box size

Creating a square is easier than creating a circle because you only increase in the corners - every corner will get 3 single crochet stitches, and the middle one becomes the new corner. You can make the square whatever size you need before starting to build up the walls. Then make the lid the same size plus one row.

Abbreviations

• 1SC = single crochet in one stitch
• [3SC] = 3 single crochet in one stitch
• *...* = repeat the part between (for example, *1SC, [3SC]* x2 means repeat twice the sequence of a single crochet in a stitch, then 3 single crochet in the next stitch)
• BLO = back loop only
• dec = decrease (2SC > 1SC)
  
• SLST = slipstitch

Directions

Total stitches for each row appear in parentheses. I work this in the round without slip stitching each row because I prefer the clean look. A stitch marker in the round is crucial or you lose track of where the row started. I use five: one to mark the beginning of each row, and four to mark each corner. Because I'm OCD. And because it lets me easily expand to any size without counting.

Box

My demo box is small (5 rows before starting sides) but I give enough info for you to adjust to any size. Because of this I give this pattern in parts.

Figure 1: row 3

Figure 2: row 4

Figure 3: after BLO row

1. Bottom square

• R1: 1SC x4 into a magic ring (4)
  
• R2: [3SC] x4  (12)
• R3: 1SC, *[3SC], 1SC, 1SC* x3, [3SC], 1SC (20)
  
• R4: 1SC, 1SC, *[3SC], 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC* x3, [3SC], 1SC, 1SC (28)
• R5: three 1SC, *[3SC], six 1SC* x3, [3SC], three 1SC (36)
  

At this point the pattern should be clear: every new row grows by 8 stitches (each side grows by two stitches - one from each flanking corner - and there are of course 4 sides, so 2x4=8).

I'm stopping at R5 for this demo, but here are what the next few rows would look like so you can see the pattern and can increase the size to your liking:

• R6: four 1SC, *[3SC], eight 1SC* x3, [3SC], four 1SC (44)
• R7: five 1SC, *[3SC], ten 1SC* x3, [3SC], five 1SC (52)
• R8: {one more than the row above before the first corner} six 1SC, *[3SC], {two more than row above} twelve 1SC* x3, [3SC], {one more than row above after 4th corner} six 1SC ({sum of row above plus 8} 60)

If you mark the middle of the corner (the 2nd of the [3SC]) each time, you no longer need to count: you just put 1SC in each stitch until you get to your corner marker, put [3SC] there (and move the marker to the second of these 3SCs), finish the round, then continue this pattern until you get the size square you want.

2. Sides

Once you get your square the size you want, the next row will be the start of the sides. You will decrease once in each corner. I'll write it for R6 for my demo, but will provide enough info to do this at any row:

• R6: BLO whole row; four 1SC, *dec, seven 1SC*, dec, three 1SC (32)
• Directions for any row regardless of number of total stitches: BLO whole row; 1SC along the side until you get to the stitch marker, then dec the stitch that's marked and the one that follows it (and move the stitch marker to this stitch); continue this pattern for the rest of the row.

Figure 3 shows the start of the sides after the BLO row. The next rows will just be regular 1SC in each stitch around until you get the sides as tall as you want them.

3. Corners

Figure 4: three loops

Figure 5: pick up loop

Figure 6: corner shape

There is one trick for the corners that gives them a better shape. I do this with the corner stitch and the one after it. When you get to each corner (the stitch with the marker) pull up a loop in it and in the next stitch (as if you're about to decrease them into one), but then drop the 2nd one (Figure 4) and hold it in place with your fingers while single crocheting the first one, then pick up this dropped loop (Figure 5) and single crochet like normal. Then put the stitch marker into the corner again (that would be the first of these two SCs). It really gives the corner a nice definition (Figure 6).

4. Finishing

Figure 7: crab edging

Get the box to the height you want, then SLST into the next stitch to finish your final row. I like to use an invisible finish to fasten off. You can google search a tutorial; here's one I randomly found: https://www.stitchbyfay.com/invisible-fasten-off/

A fancier option that I really like is to add one more row using crab stitch edging. I made the crab stitch a different color so it's easier to see for my demo project (Figure 7).

Crab stitching is basically single crocheting backwards. It's pretty easy to adjust the tension because it's a slow moving stitch. For me anyway. Here is a random tutorial I found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7XOkueIkNM but there's plenty others if you google it.

Lid

Same directions as the box bottom, but add one more row/round to the square before starting the sides, so it is one size bigger than the box and can easily fit on top. Then however many rows you feel the sides need, but certainly fewer than the box (two after the BLO row should do it for smaller boxes).

Crab edging on the lid really makes it pop (you can sort of see it in the image of the full box at the start of this post). I quite like the contrast the crab stitching adds when it's in a different color, and will be doing this going forward on all lids.

That's it. As predicted I probably gave waaaay too much info. Luckily, you can just skip to the parts that matter. Would love to see photos of results.

Crocheting Tools: The Essentials

How much to spend on crochet hooks?

You can't crochet without hooks. But costs can range from around $10 for a full set of hooks to closer to $100. All hooks will do the job, so why spend more?

What matters?

There is a lot of advice online. I found it overwhelming. I may be just adding to the noise, but here are considerations I found relevant.

My first hook came with a crocheting Star Wars characters kit. Generic thin metal; it did the job but it hurt my hand so I decided I needed some padding and opted for a cheap all-in-one kit from Amazon (costing under $15 it contained 13 lightweight metal hooks with soft-grip rubber handles sizes 2.0mm to 10.0mm and some useful accessories I wrote about in my post on non-essential tools).

Then I was gifted two bamboo handle hooks (2.5mm and 3.5mm) that became my favorites. The rubber grips of the cheap set would easily slide off the hooks and gluing them was a major fail. I needed more sizes. By this point I'd read reviews of people raving about name brand hooks and decided I had a choice to make: try more cheap sets or invest in better hooks. I was committed to my new hobby of crocheting. I went for option #2.

Well, not directly... first some hand-wringing, some debating, a lot of advice reading. Like, weeks of this. finally I made up my mind and opted for the brand most people seem to agree is the best: the Etimo Tulip (my set is pictured here; it cost around $55). And I've never looked back. So if you just want the bottom line: yes it was worth it and I wholeheartedly recommend the Tulip set if you crochet regularly.

If you want the full consideration from my perspective, here it is, broken down by points of comparison across hooks.

Hook Shape

The shape of the lip (the part that grabs your yarn) can vary and affect how efficiently you grab a loop. The mouth (or bowl) - the underside of the lip where the yarn is held - can be more or less shallow, also potentially affecting your tension; some complain that very shallow mouths lead to dropped loops. Personally, I find that I can get used to any hook shape and adjust my technique. Maybe being a novice trying different hooks helped; an expert that is truly used to one type of hook might have a different take.

My recommendation is before spending a lot on a full set of name-brand hooks you purchase one in your most used size (if you mostly do amigurumi, go with 3.5mm) to try it out.

Material

Hooks can be plastic, various metals (aluminum, steel), wood, and their handles can be the same material as the hook or added bulk made of plastic, wood, or rubber/silicone. 

One thing to consider is the weight of the hook (plastic or wood is lighter than metal; some metals are heavier than others). For small projects it doesn't matter to me, but for larger ones or when working with T-shirt yarn I prefer a lighter hook.

Another consideration is how smooth the hook is: obviously smoother is better so it doesn't snag the yarn. T-shirt yarn had too much friction with metal hooks, and a smooth plastic one was a dream. The Tulip set is so smooth, it has almost no friction with any yarn. Does your hook squeak when it's handling yarn? That's not smooth.

I've never used wooden hooks (only metal hooks with bamboo handles, which I liked). Some people really like them, but a cheap set of wooden hooks is not likely to be perfectly smooth: expect snagging.

Grip

The handles of the hooks have a lot to do with comfort and functionality. I guess I grip the hook tightly, so a "naked" metal hook made my hands achy and tired. The rubber soft-grip handles of my generic set started out great, but they tended to slide off the hooks and needed constant readjustment. Don't bother with any rubber handles that aren't attached unless you want to spend half your time pushing them back on. Also, I found the shapes of the handles and grip part more important than their composition (being soft didn't offer any benefit). The bamboo handles were equally comfortable as the rubber.

Price 

So knowing that any hook will technically work, is it worth spending more for something better? Seems to me most product reviewers say they were glad they invested in a good set. And I feel the same.

Summary: I love my Tulip hooks. The Tulips glide through all yarn types, have a good grip handle that doesn't slip out, and are very light. My only regret is not buying them sooner. I haven't tried other name brands, and did not see reviews that were as consistently good. I would have a very hard time paying much more than $10/hook though.