Gift Box - Free Crochet Pattern

Why Gift Box?

Part of crocheting a gift for someone is the presentation. I like crocheting gift bags or boxes that make the gift more personal. These are reusable, so it's like gifting a second item. I used this box to gift a baby yoda to a friend.

This is my first attempt at writing out a pattern so there's a good chance I'll provide too much information.

What you will need:

Yarn

I used three colors: one for the box, one for the cover, and one for the ribbon. I used Impeccable (by Loops & Threads): it's 100% acrylic, medium (4) weight; a bit bulkier than Caron Simply Soft (which is also 100% acrylic, medium weight) but not as bulky as Red Heart Super Saver (also 100% acrylic, medium weight). For this demo I'm using white 100% cotton medium (Lily Sugar 'n Cream) with a 3.5mm hook.

The colors I used for the box in the photo (for an adult male friend) are Pumpkin for the box, Royal for the top, and Sunny Day for the ribbon.

Tools

As with most patterns you'll need a crochet hook, stitch markers, scissors, and a darning/tapestry needle (a big-eye needle to work in the yarn ends for a finished product). I also like to use a stitch counter. I have a separate post for my thoughts on non-essential tools: Crocheting Tools: Non Essentials

Note on hooks: I used 3.5mm crochet hook because I wanted the stitches to be tight so the box holds its shape. If you want to go sturdier and decide to double-yarn (I didn't), maybe go with 4.0mm if 3.5 is too small. But in general I'd go with the smallest hook you are able to work the yarn with.

Basic concept and box size

Creating a square is easier than creating a circle because you only increase in the corners - every corner will get 3 single crochet stitches, and the middle one becomes the new corner. You can make the square whatever size you need before starting to build up the walls. Then make the lid the same size plus one row.

Abbreviations

• 1SC = single crochet in one stitch
• [3SC] = 3 single crochet in one stitch
• *...* = repeat the part between (for example, *1SC, [3SC]* x2 means repeat twice the sequence of a single crochet in a stitch, then 3 single crochet in the next stitch)
• BLO = back loop only
• dec = decrease (2SC > 1SC)
  
• SLST = slipstitch

Directions

Total stitches for each row appear in parentheses. I work this in the round without slip stitching each row because I prefer the clean look. A stitch marker in the round is crucial or you lose track of where the row started. I use five: one to mark the beginning of each row, and four to mark each corner. Because I'm OCD. And because it lets me easily expand to any size without counting.

Box

My demo box is small (5 rows before starting sides) but I give enough info for you to adjust to any size. Because of this I give this pattern in parts.

Figure 1: row 3

Figure 2: row 4

Figure 3: after BLO row

1. Bottom square

• R1: 1SC x4 into a magic ring (4)
  
• R2: [3SC] x4  (12)
• R3: 1SC, *[3SC], 1SC, 1SC* x3, [3SC], 1SC (20)
  
• R4: 1SC, 1SC, *[3SC], 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC* x3, [3SC], 1SC, 1SC (28)
• R5: three 1SC, *[3SC], six 1SC* x3, [3SC], three 1SC (36)
  

At this point the pattern should be clear: every new row grows by 8 stitches (each side grows by two stitches - one from each flanking corner - and there are of course 4 sides, so 2x4=8).

I'm stopping at R5 for this demo, but here are what the next few rows would look like so you can see the pattern and can increase the size to your liking:

• R6: four 1SC, *[3SC], eight 1SC* x3, [3SC], four 1SC (44)
• R7: five 1SC, *[3SC], ten 1SC* x3, [3SC], five 1SC (52)
• R8: {one more than the row above before the first corner} six 1SC, *[3SC], {two more than row above} twelve 1SC* x3, [3SC], {one more than row above after 4th corner} six 1SC ({sum of row above plus 8} 60)

If you mark the middle of the corner (the 2nd of the [3SC]) each time, you no longer need to count: you just put 1SC in each stitch until you get to your corner marker, put [3SC] there (and move the marker to the second of these 3SCs), finish the round, then continue this pattern until you get the size square you want.

2. Sides

Once you get your square the size you want, the next row will be the start of the sides. You will decrease once in each corner. I'll write it for R6 for my demo, but will provide enough info to do this at any row:

• R6: BLO whole row; four 1SC, *dec, seven 1SC*, dec, three 1SC (32)
• Directions for any row regardless of number of total stitches: BLO whole row; 1SC along the side until you get to the stitch marker, then dec the stitch that's marked and the one that follows it (and move the stitch marker to this stitch); continue this pattern for the rest of the row.

Figure 3 shows the start of the sides after the BLO row. The next rows will just be regular 1SC in each stitch around until you get the sides as tall as you want them.

3. Corners

Figure 4: three loops

Figure 5: pick up loop

Figure 6: corner shape

There is one trick for the corners that gives them a better shape. I do this with the corner stitch and the one after it. When you get to each corner (the stitch with the marker) pull up a loop in it and in the next stitch (as if you're about to decrease them into one), but then drop the 2nd one (Figure 4) and hold it in place with your fingers while single crocheting the first one, then pick up this dropped loop (Figure 5) and single crochet like normal. Then put the stitch marker into the corner again (that would be the first of these two SCs). It really gives the corner a nice definition (Figure 6).

4. Finishing

Figure 7: crab edging

Get the box to the height you want, then SLST into the next stitch to finish your final row. I like to use an invisible finish to fasten off. You can google search a tutorial; here's one I randomly found: https://www.stitchbyfay.com/invisible-fasten-off/

A fancier option that I really like is to add one more row using crab stitch edging. I made the crab stitch a different color so it's easier to see for my demo project (Figure 7).

Crab stitching is basically single crocheting backwards. It's pretty easy to adjust the tension because it's a slow moving stitch. For me anyway. Here is a random tutorial I found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7XOkueIkNM but there's plenty others if you google it.

Lid

Same directions as the box bottom, but add one more row/round to the square before starting the sides, so it is one size bigger than the box and can easily fit on top. Then however many rows you feel the sides need, but certainly fewer than the box (two after the BLO row should do it for smaller boxes).

Crab edging on the lid really makes it pop (you can sort of see it in the image of the full box at the start of this post). I quite like the contrast the crab stitching adds when it's in a different color, and will be doing this going forward on all lids.

That's it. As predicted I probably gave waaaay too much info. Luckily, you can just skip to the parts that matter. Would love to see photos of results.